2017 Bermuda One-Two Log Entries
6/23/17
9:20 PM
Rockland Mooring at 6 PM. Back Road, Skowhegan, 9 PM. It is good to be home.
6/23/17
10:30 AM
43:29 N 69:28 W
Gulf of Maine
Greetings, Sailing friends and family! Bluebird and I have had a pleasant overnight Solstice Day sail from Newport, through Buzzard’s Bay, the Cape Cod Canal, Massachusetts Bay, and now finally the Gulf of Maine, about 50 nm from Rockland, expected arrival this evening. In the meantime, I am catching up with boat chores and the long overdue Leg 2 report, which of course won’t go out until I’m ashore.
Thursday June 15: The race was largely a downwind affair, beginning at the Start- Bluebird led the fleet with spinnaker up, through the Town Cut (avoiding returning J Class boats and a ferry!). This was also the start of what turned out to be a long duel with Yankee Girl, our Morris Justine sister ship- hot on our heels, she caught us at the Kitchen Shoals Mark outside of the reef, heading West to our East. Overnight, the winds were light from the NW, with periods of drifting while waiting for an expected shift to the East.
Friday June 16: This shift came as expected at 8 AM, SE 15-8 K. With spinnaker up, we began what would be days of downwind surfing. Eventually, we caught up with and passed Yankee Girl- she had a larger spinnaker and could not carry it as long as we could.
Saturday June 17: experienced our first spinnaker wrap (in a moment of inattention or sudden wind shift, the spinnaker folds around the forestay, sometimes tying itself in a knot- sometimes difficult to resolve)- we were able to get it down, unwrap, up again. As we continued East, the wind was slowly clocking around to eventually be from the SW. During this time, we experimented with different sail combinations, trying to maintain a good heading. At one point we had the jib poled out in order to get a deeper downwind angle. We also set the staysail, and imagine that we gained 0.1 K! Eventually, we jibed over, got the spinnaker up again, on our way to Newport!
During all of this time, John and I are keeping 2-4 hour watches- one person on, one sleeping or resting, but working together for the sail changes. We conferred frequently on strategy and route, with frequent weather updates. We tried to stay well-fed, rested and hydrated. We both had spells of seasickness-related anorexia and fatigue.
Sunday, June 18: this was probably our best day sailing. We knew (from reports, not observation) that Yankee Girl, further the West, had moved ahead of us. From the bright blue “Happy Valley” Bermuda waters, we entered the deep blue of the Gulf Stream. The waters were doted with clumps of Sargasso weed and multiple purple iridescent Portuguese Man O’ War jellyfish, which appear to be sailing deliberately about. We had some rain showers, a little thunder and lightning (it is the Gulf Stream, after all!) and periods of lighter wind. Flying fish came aboard at night. It was a very benign Gulf Stream passage.
Sunset, a clear starry sky, no moon. Phosphorescent wake, phosphorescent dolphins, shooting stars and Saturn overhead, a full Milky Way. I had the 8 PM to midnight watch, and it really felt as though I were riding a rocket ship through space.
But! This is a sea story, so we need some drama: at midnight, I went below to fill out the log book. We were cranking along at 7-8+ knots, with the big red spinnaker (which by now I have named Clifford, in honor of the Big Red Dog) flying overhead. Suddenly, the boat was out of control, not steering, while the spinnaker was wrapping itself around the inner forestay. All hands on deck! We discovered the autopilot to working, but couldn’t tell why. While I hand steered the boat, John got the spinnaker down to deck level, still tangle up in knots. We got the genoa deployed, so that we were at least moving a bit, if not as fast. We eventually figured out that the autopilot problem was mechanical, rather than a software issue. This led to emptying a cockpit locker, removing a panel, me crawling into the stern of the boat, finding that the autopilot ram had disconnected from the coupling attaching it to the steering quadrant. Fortunately, this was now easily reconnected.
Then! We still had the spinnaker to deal with (knowing that Yankee Girl must be pulling further and further ahead through all of this)- We got it untangled from the forestay, dragged it below to unravel/unknot it, get it back into it’s “snuffer”, get it back onto deck and hoisted, finally back in the race at 3 AM!
Monday June 19: We are onto the Continental Shelf, marked by the cold gray-green waters that we are used to, marked by rows of long lines (long baited swordfish fishing lines, marked by buoys and radar reflectors at their ends) that needed to be avoided. Also had several sightings of basking sharks- strange creatures- they look like giant tadpoles with a floppy dorsal fin, wiggling around in the water. The winds are building 20-25 K, usually we would be taking the spinnaker down in these conditions, but we kept it up, routinely flying 9+ K, competing for the record (which John won at 10.6 K!). The wind got up to 30 K- eventually, we had to go at a higher reaching angle to reach Newport, and finally doused Clifford. But What a great run it was!
We crossed the finish line at 11:06 PM and made it into Newport, happy to get to the dock. Happy to find that we corrected 16 minutes ahead of Yankee Girl. And even happier to get to our favorite early AM diner for a big breakfast! We had been dreaming of this for the whole trip.
(Sidenote: still on watch- first Maine lobster boat nearby- Monhegan has appeared on the horizon).
So now this adventure is coming to an end. As always happens, many times during the race I wondered why I am doing this, and whether I would do it again. One gets cold, wet, seasick and very tired. We and the boats get beat up. You feel lonely and scared.
The positives of the race: in todays world, we don’t get many opportunities to really stretch oneself. We don’t get time to be by ourselves. We don’t take a break from the mind-numbing daily pulse of the news. The race provides a healthy antidote to all of that.
Before and during the race, one has to work on physical and especially mental preparation, working on patience, stamina, pacing. Especially on the solo leg, it becomes an exercise in mindfulness.
Other positives: while the sailors are all very competitive, we know that we are all there for each other, ready to help, and that this bond is much more important than winning. Sometimes, this help is a heroic rescue of another sailor; other times, it is simply standing by, giving emotional support. There is a tremendous feeling of comradery and bonding that develops. I haven’t really experienced this in too many other situations.
The next race is not for two years, so theres plenty of time to think about these things.
As always, I have to thank everyone who helped me safely complete this adventure. It is really a team effort.
The first, John Priestley, my “ringer”and co-skipper for the second leg. This is the 5th Bermuda race we have done together, our first in 2001. John is a superb sailor, navigator, tactician and sail trimmer. More importantly, he is just a great shipmate and friend. He is calm and confident- never losing his temper or appearing to be stressed. Every problem is just a situation to be solved. Thank you JOHN!
Thank you to my colleagues and co-workers at RFGH and Somerset Primary Care, for dealing with everything while I am away, and for being supportive. Thanks especially to Dr. Dina Jeannotte, for her care and coverage of my patients while I am away.
OTHER THANKS: Doug Pope at Pope Sails: Big Red made the difference on leg two, the solent/staysails kept me going on leg 1. Loric and Dave from Weymouth Rigging, for all of their improvements in the rig (and especially for the fact that the mast stayed up)! Bill and the crew at Ocean Pursuits, for all of the skilled and attentive work they have done over many years now, keeping Bluebird safe, functional and beautiful. And finally, Chuck Paine for designing this beauty, and Morris Yachts for making the design a reality.
OK, back on watch. Monhegan closer. I think I will sail between Monhegan and Manana for fun.
Fair winds to all, Gust
6/22/17
43 23N. 69 33W. 0900
We had a wonder full Solstice Day sail from Newport down Buzzard's Bay, through the Cape Cod Canal, Cape Cod Bay and Massachusets Bay, and finally our home waters in the Gulf of Maine. The day is clear and bright with a steady SW wind blowing us along- should arrive in Rockland this evening.
Cheers to all, Gust aboard Bluebird
6/21/17
Summer Solstice June 21 2017-
Sailing down Buzzards Bay, a bright sunny day with pleasant SW winds, bound for the Cape Cod Canal and then Maine!
6/20/17
Crossed the finish line 11PM or so last night. Bluebird corrected first place in Class 4, just 16 minutes ahead of Yankee Girl, who sailed a great race. Reports to follow…
6/18/17
Bluebird Report Day #5
40:02N 69:58W
Winds 20K Making 8-9 K with spinnaker. Crew tired, but moving along in the right direction. Hope to be in Newport late tonight!
6/18/17
Bluebird Report Day #4
37:54N. 67:25W. 0630 EDT
Greetings from Bluebird, and Happy Father"s Day!
We had an interesting night in the Gulf Stream, with some nice showers washing the boat, some lightning, then slow dying of the wind, not in our forecast! We are in the cooler green-gray waters of the Atlantic, moving slowly but at least out of the negative current and pointing towards Newport. May the SW breeze fill in!
Cheers, John and Gust
6/17/17
Morning Report Day #3
35:60N 66:05W 08:30
A good night with the spinnaker flying, making 7-8K in winds of 17K, occasionally higher. Wrapped the spinnaker this AM, took some time to sort out, making good way now. Wind is clocking gradually, expected to go to the SW eventually. In Concert nearby, says all's well.
We are about 100 NM from the Gulf Stream.
Fair winds, Bluebird
6/16/17
Evening Report
1800 06.16/17. 34:26N 65:23W
We've had The SE winds 15-18K since this AM, have been surfing with big red the spinnaker up, making 7-8K in excellent sailing. And best of all, Yankee Girl appeared from the West and is just ahead of us!
We are hand-steering with two hour watches,.
Cheers to all, the Bluebird crew.
6/16/2017
33:32N 64:28 W. 0700
Greetings Bluebirders!
We have had a slow and unproductive night as the E winds did not fill in. We are racing the iridescent Portuguese Man O' War jellyfish, who seem to go across the water with great purpose. It is overcast and muggy. A few boats, unidentified, are in site.
We are in good spirits and hoping for some wind!
Cheers, Gust and John
6/15/17
Bluebird Bermuda-Newport Log Leg #2, Day #1
North of Bermuda-
Bluebird had an excellent start this AM, leading the fleet, under our red spinnaker, out of the Harbor, through the Cut, and out to Kitchen Shoals, where Yankee Girl finally caught us. We are making 5K or so in light shifty NW winds, which will get lighter as the afternoon goes on, eventually coming back from the SE.
The boat is good, we are making good speed, hope for a good voyage.
Fair winds to all, Gust and John on Bluebird
6/11/2017
Greetings, sailing friends and family-
The weather has shifted from hot and muggy to cool and raining, a much-needed soaking over the Island last night. I am off the boat, with Jan at a cottage on a hill overlooking St. George Harbor. This morning’s run was quite pleasant- early morning walkers are about; feral chickens, cats and lizards dart around the side of the road. There is a small dairy farm with milking cows and goats; they seemed quite pleased to have had some rain. There is distinctly less trash about, as the Island has made concerted efforts over the years to improve recycling and conservation in general. Despite my grumbling earlier about more development, this end of the island is still relatively quiet with lots of green spaces and conserved, historical areas. I stopped off halfway through the run at the Yacht Club to check on Bluebird and visit with my sailing friends.
Yesterday, Jan and I took a ferry to the other side of the island, to watch the beginning of the America’s Cup semifinals, featuring Team New Zealand against Team Artemis/Sweden. Whoever gets to 5out of 7 races, goes on to the finals against Oracle/USA. I didn’t expect to find this very interesting, but came away very impressed. The boats are very fast, and the ability to follow the action on large screens, coupled with the roars of the fans at each gate, plus the finish right in front of us, made it very exiting. The last race was very close and intense- until the skipper of Artemis slipped and fell overboard, fortunately avoiding injury. They will be back on the water today. View photos of America's Cup races.
Otherwise, we are resting, reading, doing a few boat chores, while I am psyching myself up for the return trip. It will be very good to have the support of John Priestley!
Cheers to all, Gust
6/8/2017
Greetings, sailing friends and family-
I did not send many updates while at sea, being busy with the boat
Bluebird and I crossed the finish line in St,. George yesterday morning, and have been safely moored at the St. George Dinghy Club since, cleaning up and putting ourselves back together again. The first three days of sailing were actually pretty good, reaching with a moderate NW wind, with spinnaker hoistings, some reefing and sail changes, a clear night or two and some great star displays once the moon went down. On Monday, a front passed through, the wind shifted to the SW, which meant we had to go into it (very un. We knew the winds were going to increase and indeed they did, up to the 30 K True range, with big swells (I can never tell how big they are, but they always look much bigger!). Lots of pounding and raging, very disconcerting. You just have to believe that everything will keep working. Bluebird takes care of me, rather than the other way around (although Bluebird does rely on me to keep the right sails up and point her in the right direction!).
Other boats had more significant problems. Spadefoot lost her keel; her skipper was rescued from his life raft by another competitor (the life raft was just the transfer vehicle). Team Wichard, one of the minis, also sustained a cracked keel box, but felt it was safe to continue (with other boats standing by), and finished today. Corvus, the third Morris Justine, has had lots of problems- a broken forestay, engine out and unable to charge, but is slowly making his way here, again in company of another boat standing by in case help is needed.
But despite all of this, I would certainly say this was not the roughest trip here. And one appreciates the great camaraderie amongst the sailors, all of whom are ready to help each other out, while remaining fiercely competitive.
As always, I am enjoying being in St. George. A fleet of Tall Ships was anchored here yesterday; they have been departing one by one under full sail today, heading for Boston. The island is very dry- homeowners rely on rain to fill their cisterns; otherwise, they have to buy desalinator water by the truckload, very expensive. We are at the quiet end of the island; at the opposite end, in Hamilton and the Dockyards, the America’s Cup contender finals are in full swing- will probably check it out this weekend. I go on my morning running tours to all the historical spots- was very disappointed to find a new “luxury condo” development on the grounds of the historical Fort St. Catherine. It seems they already have plenty of condos and hotels here, but increasingly fewer and fewer green open spaces. Oh well…
Race results: friend Zach sailed a great race on Morris Justine Yankee Girl to finish first in Class 4 (and possibly will be first in fleet), with Bluebird less than 4 minutes of corrected time behind him, friend Peter on Panacea in third place less than 5 minutes corrected behind Bluebird. Amazing that it should all be so close in the end!
Looking forward to Jan arriving tomorrow. The return race starts next Thursday June 15; hopefully, with the help of crewmate John Priestley we will make up that 4 minute deficit and I will be more consistent with my log reports. As always, follow the race at bermuda1-2.org and bluebirdsail.com.
Fair winds to us all, Gust
6/6/2017
A lot of crashing and bashing about last night, but all's well this AM. Wind still 20K from the SW with large swells. I changed to a smaller staysail and my speed has slowed down to 4K, but everything is gentler. My GRIB files say the winds will peak out in the mid-twenties around noon, then decrease. Hope that is true!
No other boats in sight, no radio contacts.
6/5/2017
All's well aboard Bluebird. The winds have shifted from pleasant Northwesterlies yesterday, to steady SW winds, currently 12 K, but expected to increase to 20 K+ eventually. I have switched from the 150% genoa to the 90% Solent, the boat is much flatter and more comfortable.
Two flying fish came aboard last night. They look delicious, but I never seem to have any interest in doing anything with them.
Team Wichard has been nearby since yesterday, otherwise no contact with any boats.
Cheers, Gust
6/4/2017
Sargasso weed and motorcycles…
Some literary thoughts:
Robert Pirsig, recently deceased author of "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance”, was also a sailor, crossing the Atlantic twice in his Westsail 32 before settling in South Bernice, Maine. Some thoughts of his:
"Those who see sailing as an escape from reality have their understanding of sailing and reality backwards. Sailing is not an escape, but a return to and confrontation with a reality from which modern civilization is itself an escape. For centuries, man suffered from the reality of an Earth that was too dark or too hot or too cold for his comfort, and to escape this, he invented complex systems of lighting, heating and air conditioning. Sailing rejects these and returns to the old realities of dark and heat and cold. Modern civilization has found radio, television, movies, nightclubs, and a huge variety of mechanized entertainment to titillate our senses and help us escape from the apparent boredom of the Earth and the Sun, the wind and the stars. Sailing returns to these ancient realities".
Borrowed from David Roper's column in June 2017 Points East magazine. David also points out that we seem determined to bring all of this civilization to our boats.
First rafts of Sargasso weed have appeared. Can flying fish be far away?
Cheers from Bluebird
6/3/2017
40 11' N, 70 18'W. 0500 AM EST
Greetings-
We had a brisk sail out of Narraganset Bay in SW winds. The fleet was more or less together until 8PM, when a series of line squalls crossed with spectacular lightning and gusts 25-30 K. After it passed, winds died and we scattered around in lumpy seas. A complete double rainbow appeared before sunset. Winds remained light and shifty from the NW. Finally, it settled down enough to get a spinnaker up.
At this point, seas are calm and flat. No one in sight- I see Corvus on the AIS some miles behind me.
Cheers, Bluebird
6/1/2017
Greetings, all-
After a pleasant few days doing jogging tours of historical Newport, today has been a full work day, getting Bluebird and myself ready for the race.Of course most of the work has already been done, but between last minute provisioning, sail checks, stowing/securing everything, weather and Gulf Stream and Communications briefings, it has been hectic. I do tend to get last minute jitters, as I’m sure most of the sailors do.
Several weather fronts are expected to cross the course, but nothing extreme. That is encouraging.
a bonus of this year’s race is that there will be 3 Morris Justine out there- Bluebird, Yankee Girl, and Corvus, all with slightly different handicap ratings. Yankee Girl is faster, lighter, with a taller carbon fiber mast and deeper keel. Hopefully, the handicap adjustment for all of that will even things out. Corvus is very similar to Bluebird, but with a smaller jib. Also in my class is comrade/mentor Peter McCrea on Panacea. We usually seem to find each other in the same patch of water.
You can follow the race by going to bermuda1-2.org. Click on “tracker”for position updates (live tomorrow). Log updates will be on bluebirdsail.com.
Many thanks to everyone who made it possible for Bluebird to be on the starting line:
Bill and Jody Cowan and the crew at Ocean Pursuits, for their expert care of the boat;
Dave Allen and Loric Weymouth for their expert rigging help;
Chuck Paine, who conjured Bluebird in his mind;
And Tom Morris and Morris Yachts, who made the vision into something real.
And of course, thanks to Jan, family, and co-workers at the hospital, without whose support I couldn't do this at all!
Cheers to all!
Gust
5/29/17
Greetings, sailing friends and family. Bluebird and I have arrived safely in Newport, Rhode Island, for the start of the Bermuda 1-2 Race, starting next Friday, June 2. This will be our 9th race together, 18th if we count the return trips! It has become a well-plowed body of water for us, but different each time. As always, our first priority is to get there safely and to sail well. We always try to do our best, but there is a good deal of luck involved.
The 1-2 is a biennial race, single-handed down to Bermuda, double handed back, 600-odd miles each way, or about 5 days for Bluebird. Return shipmate this year will be John Priestley, who was also with us for the 2015 race, as well as many others.
The trip from Rockland was relatively pleasant and uneventful, for a change. I sailed in tandem with friend and fellow competitor Peter McCrea on Panacea. We spent Friday night aboard in Rockland Harbor, departing at dawn Saturday. Instead of the usual brutal beat into a piping SW winds, we had variable Easterlies, quite moderate, ended up doing a lot of motoring. The night was cold, clear, and starlit with a waxing crescent moon. We made it to the Cape Cod Canal the next morning, anchored nearby while waiting for the tide to turn in our favor. After a quick transit through the canal, we spent the night in Onset on Buzzard’s Bay.
Today, the winds were quite blustery with gusts over 20K from the NE, making for a fast downwind ride to Newport through rain and fog.
The next few days will be busy with last minute provisioning, tinkering on the boat, safety inspections, weather briefings, and of course catching up with friends! Will send another report, with tracking links, before next Friday.
Fair winds to all, Gust
on Bluebird
BLUEBIRD SAILING ADVENTURES